Measuring
Measuring
This is specifically for those that requested about Duoplex
Duoplex
What is duoplex its a none-stretch knit fabric. It’s smooth on the reverse so no need to line it unless that’s what you prefer. It’s stable so one of the perfect bra fabrics for the cradle and cups. One side has a shiny side the other side is Matt. Either side can be used for the front but technically the shiny side is the front of the fabrics.
Let’s look abit more closely at the fabric it has ridges that run down the fabric. Which way do you think the dogs go? Let’s see. If I stretch the fabric going across the ridges it has 5% give If I pull the fabric going the opposite way down the ridges you get 3% give.
When looking at duoplex you can see ridges going up and down the fabric. Having the fabric with the ridges going up and down is a quick way to tell the greatest stretch
Powernet
Powernet comes in all the colours of the rainbow. Plain and patterned.
Powernet comes in several weights from 90gsm through to 240gsm maybe even heavier. 90gsm is lightweight usually used in underwear or for bralettes.
Medium powernet is roughly 180gsm used for bra back bands. Heavyweight powernet is anything from 240 gsm this can be used in bra back band or even for shape wear.
How to tell the strongest direction of greatest stretch. The structure looks like little oblongs going from left to right representing a brick wall. When stretched this will elongate. When looking at the opposite direction it looks like the oblongs go up and down. Stretch it from left to right this makes the oblong turn into more like a hole. I’m not saying there is a right and wrong way to use the powernet but using it with the oblongs going from left to right which elongate when stretched will give you better support.
Now let’s take a look at the front and back of the powernet. Well at first glance they look the same. Look a little closer one side has more texture than the other. If you find it difficult to see try running your nail down the ridges. Both sides will make a noise like a scratching sound but the back of the fabrics I doesn’t sound as much.
SHEER CUP LINING
- Sheer cup lining is 20 or 15 denier depending where you are in the world. It’s has it says it’s sheer. It’s a nylon fabric that looks like a grid.
- Does it have stretch? It doesn’t have stretch only mechanical stretch in one direction.
- How to tell the right side. This can be awkward one side is slightly rougher than the other. Try letting the sheer cup lining run down the back of your hand or brushing it across your cheek try both sides one should to be smoother. The wrong side the grid is slightly raised compared to the front.
- Where can it be used. It can be used on the front cradle to stabilise. Also can be used in the cups to stabilise. It can be used on its own. If your smaller than a D cup you could use the sheer cup lining as one layer. People bigger than a D cup may want to double the sheer cup lining. If you use the mechanical stretch in opposite directions you will get better support.
- If I use the wrong side does it matter? No not at all unless you are really hypersensitive you may find the right side more comfortable.
The photos were really hard to capture front and back but hopefully you will be able to see the slight difference. I used two different colours to try to capture the difference.
Hey there my lovely lingerie makers. I’m announcing that Jennifer from Porcelynne has a new pattern out. It’s marvellous as it’s not only a wired bra (the mono wire) but also a none wired bra. Best of both worlds. There is a pattern only with a 35 pages of instructions or a course that has the pattern and the 35 pages of instructions as well as step by step videos to accompany the pattern.
There are three yes three types of cup patterns Rounded, Projected, or omega. Isn’t that impressive for just one pattern. And there’s more 25% off the course with patterns until the end of November
Well worth everything you get. Get yours while there’s 25
Happy Easter everyone
Im sorry I’ve been pretty quite this year. I’ve had a lot going on family wise. Anyway I don’t want to burden you with the knitty gritty details. I hope everyone has a lovely Easter no matter what your doing. I’m going to try and fit some sewing in.
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE
We managed to survive this awful pandemic. As we’ve entered 2022, opening up tomorrow look out for new kits coming soon, also I have a few ideas up my sleeve. You may have noticed I’ve changed some of the pages by putting by colours to help you find what your looking for.
What are your plans for lingerie sewing this year. I shall tell you mine. I’m hoping to renew some of my lingerie, especially nightwear. I want to experiment on drafting again. Don’t know if it will go anywhere time will tell. I do like to test myself doing new things.
Anyway enough of me rattling on. I will let you all get back to your sewing.
Seam tape is a sheer nylon fabric either cut rigid cut on the bias.
The way I have found to sew this tape. I sew the seam that needs the tape first then I sew over the seam just sewn with the right edge of the seam tape just going into the seam allowance. Very carefully trim the excess fabric of the main fabric as close to the stitching line. Then with the seam tape facing you stitch to the side that covers the seam. I use the stitching line as a guide so the stitching is the same width all the way down the seam. You can now trim the excess of the seam tape to the seam if required. This is the way I have found it works for me. There are probably different ways that it can be done.
What a fantastic weekend with the Bra Sewing Bee. I’ve always said we are all learning and true to form I’ve learnt new things. Well worth watching. It’s fantastic that ladies from around the globe get together and share what they know, what works for them, what doesn’t. I’m hoping to implimentb some of the things I’ve learnt. There not forced to work for me but I love trying new procedures I learn along the way.
Back to watching more.....
6 Jul 2021 17:50
Measuring
5 Jul 2021 17:59
Hook and eyes are used to fasten up your bra mainly in the back of bras. Hook and eyes sets come in two pieces hooks which consist of one row of hooks varying from one, two, three, four, five, six, or a continuous piece. The size of hook and eyes refer to the hight. The eyes come with either one, two, three or four sets of rows. The pieces are sealed round three of the edges, the fourth edge is left open so you can put your bra back fabric between them, to sew to complete your bra fastening. The continuous hook and eye set will need sewing round two extra edges to help stop the closure from looking aged with washing. What size hook and eye to use will depend on your size and the pattern requirements. Front fastened bras use either use clips, hook and eye.
20 Jun 2021 07:37
19 Jun 2021 12:32
Hi, I’m Diane some may now me as Di. Just a little back ground on how I came to be here. I’ve sewn for as long as I can remember. I’ve always been crafty knitting, crocheting and sewing. When I was in my teens I couldn’t get clothes to fit my small waist if they fit the hips the waist was miles to big, if garments fit the waist they were too small for the hips. Eventually I decided to start making my own lingerie about 15 years ago. There wasn’t much out there at the time for bra making. I only found one pattern. I’ve always loved all things pretty. Love that I can create things that are not on the high street.